Beijing – Business Trip Experience with the EU Representatives

Sunday afternoon. I am looking for a flight to Beijing at Vantaa Airport (Finland, Helsinki). Long-distance flights to Asia are within an hour: Tokyo, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and the last six o’clock in the evening, our Beijing flight. In the last two hours, the Asian, Japanese and Chinese languages have dominated this part of Vantaa Airport lounge.

Monday. In the morning at 6.45 (local time), I arrive at Beijing Airport, which doesn’t seem to be too big, but I’m tired and unable to get an overview or anyone meeting me. I look around, just like every airport in the world, but here are the waiters with names but my name is missing. I walk in the hall from one end to the other. There are not many of people left and those who are yet leaving the airport seem very happy. I’ll take my mobile phone and call any international code to Beijing to the EU-China Forum organizing committee, but so early in the morning no one is taking the phone. Taxi drivers are somehow attacking me – they are always ready to take anyone anywhere. I sit for a while and then move around again. There is also an information desk at the airport where a young Chinese woman is sitting in a green uniform, but unfortunately she does not speak English at all. So much about international airport. Finally, in half an hour, I see one tall European man and I hear him speaking to someone local about my conference. So, I turn around to the man and it happens to be a Finn who came from the same flight. The car is waiting for us and after an hour’s ride we are somewhere in Beijing, where exactly – it’s unclear. Anyway, it is a complex of different buildings and we are taken to the hotel in the middle of this complex. Later it turns out that this is the Chinese School of National Administration (CSNA), where there is in-service training for public officials taking place. In our meaning it is the Master’s studies, but not the BA level of studies. There are schools, dormitories, a canteen on the territory and some men in uniform, possibly police officers guarding the territory. They even ask for a document when entering.

We arrive at the hotel around 8:00 am in the morning. Breakfast is offered immediately. There, we are proposed a visit by some of the earlier arrived Europeans who go to a summer residence in half an hour. We are very tired and politely decline. Now back to the hotel room, bed and sleep for a few hours. Then we have a pleasant opportunity to join the following excursions for the Europeans in the afternoon.

The hotel room is more than a usual hotel room. Actually it is a two-room space, where the first and larger room has Chinese-style (and very much Soviet-like) dark furniture, desk with computer and internet connection (!), furniture (sofa, armchairs), ordinary chairs, table, shelves-cabinets, refrigerator with water, coca-cola and sprite. The bedroom is smaller but has a large bed and TV-set with multiple (ca 30) channels, as much as I understand in Chinese (CCTV), Japanese, Korean. Mostly soap operas. The bathroom is large and with mirrors, the hall has a large closet. Air conditioning is everywhere, and it is really needed as the outside temperature is about 30 degrees Celsius. We are in China during one of the best weather seasons – in mid-September: not cold and not as hot as in summer, no cross-winds or sandstorms. The rest of the year (except May) is more complicated to travel to Beijing from the point of view of climate. For example, in two weeks time, it will be more uncomfortable to come to Beijing because the sandstorms and winds.

After lunch, we gather in the hotel lobby. The bus will arrive and we, the Europeans will go to the Forbidden City tour. On the way to the destination, the local, i.e., Chinese guide tells us the Forbidden City history and our emotional expectations rise like we are travelling in the fairy tale. Journey to the afternoon in Beijing Forbidden City will not last long and we will be soon at one of the gates where we will continue to walk to the palace area. Walking through the gates, we are on the first square, where there are Chinese buildings predominantly dark red-green with curved roofs.

Then we will proceed through the following gateways closer to the historically most closed parts. Houses along the squares are largely restored. The fields are relatively large. But in the end I get dispirited. There is something very special about it and no doubt the temple complex is unique, but one who has seen Kathmandu’s Asian-version “castle” from the Middle Ages in its natural form in Nepal or Angkor’s complicated constructions in Cambodia, the Beijing Forbidden City does not have a great effect. It is beautiful, peculiar and so on … but something is lost. Maybe it is too shiny, maybe too touristy …

We spend the evening with the Finn in the bar near our school and watch the local night show. A normal evening in a big city with about 20 million people living there. At that point, I still do not embrace the size of the city. However, we are pleased that it is warmly weather because in Estonia early autumn has started and people are wearing lightweight coats. My Finnish friend is not a regular Finn. He has traveled a lot, his English is perfect, he has worked and lived with his family for 2 years in Hanoi that has left an unforgettable impression on him. It was the most interesting period in his life so far.

Tuesday

The beginning of the Conference or Forum. The Conference is dedicated to public administration or state administration (“Good Governance”). It is the European Union-China program, which the EU supports with millions of Euros each year. There are about 50 European representatives from different EU countries’ governments and national public administration research institutes. There are English, Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, Belgian, Czech, Lithuanian, Latvian, Finnish etc. and me as the only Estonian. The Chinese make up 70% of the participants and the most strange fact is – they do not speak English at all. The translation is helpful in general: simultaneous interpretation and headphones. The event, of course, begins with a plenary session in a large modern hall of an international complex. Before the official start of the event, a joint photo will be taken with a large number of participants on it. The result is an amazing group photo, where every person is extremely clear.

The plenary session is opened classically with welcome speeches. Some Chinese speak about the importance of Chinese-EU cooperation, wishing the conference every success … The Czech Deputy Prime Minister speaks in the Czech language, and now there is a paper in front of me saying that simultaneous translation is already done in three languages – Chinese, English and Czech. Yeah, yeah … awesome Chinese. The Czech Prime Minister will turn to the “dear listeners” as well as to his own Czech delegation. Well, this delegation is being marked particularly. Again he wishes success …

There is a five-minute speech by Franz Jessen (Jessen – Temporary Assistant to the Delegation of the European Commission, probably residing in Beijing). He also talks about the unusual need for cooperation between China and the EU, the basics of good governance, reads some of the topics of the conference and wishes success…

The following speeches show that we have 300 participants, 56 of whom are from Europe. Then the British Ambassador to China (Sir Christopher Hum) speaks, recalling that this event will also celebrate another anniversary of China-EU relations. Finally, success wishes for future productive discussions …

French Director of the European Institute of Public Administration (EIPA), who has also visited Estonia – Gérard Druesne – praises the event. It turns out that as a frequent traveler he has not attended a similar conference in China last year. Again, the basics of good governance will come, and the five-minute speech ends with a wish for fruitful discussions … nothing original.

Lastly, Mr Peking, the Deputy Mayor – FAN Boyunan is welcomed. In short, he talks about the mutual trust needed by China and the EU, tells about tourism and recommends that Europeans get to know Beijing’s attractions to come back with families later.

Tea break.

The 15-minute break bears the official name of “tea break” and indeed offers tea, only in tea bags. There is also coffee, but these are the Nescafe concentrate, where coffee, sugar and milk powder are all put together. People are talking in a loud voice and I get out of the hall and sit down. Here the air conditioner works.

Plenary session No.1.

Mr. CHENG Fujin, Vice President, CSNA (China Public Administration School). Talking about EU-China economic relations. China is becoming a country-based to society-based society. He talks about the ‘success story’ of the people’s democratic way of thinking and the rule of law, which is China’s recent progress. The presentation ends with the recognition of a harmonizing society. Later, in virtually any subsequent presentation by the Chinese, the idea of a “harmonizing society”, which seems to be China’s leading – a new slogan of the Communist Party, is a red thread. Interestingly, the Czechs have left the conference.

Mr. LI Xeuju – Minister of Civil Affairs and his presentation title sounds: “Improving Governance in the Chinese Urban and Rural Community.” Of course, Chinese TV is also present. The speech is dedicated to local authorities, dating back to 1950s. In general, this is some confusing lecture on Chinese history, but why such a presentation in such a Forum is incomprehensible. OK. The Communist Party still has an important role to play in modern China; members of the party must lead local governments; they need to see that community interests are represented, reflected. The party has a leading role in the Chinese society.

Mr. Neil Kinghan – Director General, Local Government and Fire Group of Deputy Prime Minister in the UK. And he goes along the following lines: thank you very much to everyone. Talks about the previous day’s visit to the Forbidden City (“how beautiful”, “how nice” etc. – all together very polite expression of emotions, however, we do have business to talk here as well). Next, he goes on with a very uninteresting presentation about local authorities as a central role in the governance and partnership with other levels of the government system. Usually, the British (academics, politicians, journalists) present extraordinarily sophisticated and in the meantime fascinating speeches at the international forums, but in this case here everything is vice versa.

Mr. HUANG Xiaojing, Fujian Provincial Governor is speaking in a hurry, the interpreter does not catch up with English, but it seems that I haven’t lost anything. In short, the economy, culture and political culture are all interrelated. Harmony is the current goal of Chinese society. Society must be used to achieve Harmony. Harmony dominates development.

Tomas Gonzales Cueto (Spanish Supreme Court) speaks in the next panel session. As he says: “Thank you for inviting everyone to be in Beijing!” Just like in the parody, thanks and thanks and it is nice to be in your sandbox.

Next, Mr.. LU Xueyi, Professor, former Director of the Institute of Sociology at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences performs an overview of China since 1979 and we all get to know that the big country has experienced tremendous social changes. Now China is in a new direction as a harmonious society is being under way. China needs a knowledgeable society with a modern social structure that has not happened over the last 20 years.

The first day is over. In the evening, the reception of the Deputy Mayor of Beijing is in our school canteen (maybe it is a restaurant in Chinese sense). Places at several round tables are indicated by special name tags. There is at least one Chinese VIP with an interpreter at each table and the rest of us are Europeans. There are presentations, of course, there are the TV teams with cameras. Waiters run and bring new foods. By the end of the evening we have eaten about 2o something courses of meals. Later it turns out that if in the old days so many festive occasions were common, in modern China there is no such a tradition any more. One of the dishes is a very good, reddish fish soup. Later, when I meet with the Estonian ambassador, it turns out that it was made from a rare species of whale and in many countries of the world forbidden even to catch.

Drinks are interesting. Alcoholic beverages include wine and beer. I get a glass of wine with a little wine in the bottom. I’d like to ask to have a more drink but my internal voice says – wait! And I do. In this country, it is customary to drink when toasts are proposed every wine every time to the bottom of the glass. Then, a little bit of wine is poured again into the glass and the next one can start during the next toast. I haven’t seen or experienced so many toasts said in two hours even in comparison with the famous Caucasian ones.
Wednesday

There is another Forum Day (business). Now excerpts from some papers, without names. According to the Director General of the Statistical Office of China, 51% of Chinese non-governmental organizations (NGOs) do not have any Communist Party cells and that is bad. Therefore, the role of the Communist Party in these organizations must be increased. Non-governmental organizations could thus be part of building a harmonious society with the assistance and guidance of the Party.

Non-governmental organizations may act freely, but the Communist Party’s role would allow the government to better manage and control these organizations. There are fewer NGOs in rural areas, they are mainly organized in bigger cities. The question-and-answer round that follows – shows that the Chinese Statistical Office, which has to register with all NGOs, does not know at all exactly how many NGOs there are in China.

The Chinese are asking numerous questions to the presenter. What’s most surprising, however, is circumstance that the translation disappears constantly. If there is an expectation of counting (for example, mobility of people in the country, movement from rural parts to city, etc.), the translation will disappear completely. You sit so to say in the dark and watch the Chinese discuss with another Chinese in their own language.

Next we divide into panels. My own is going somewhere next door. I get up and make a slide show. In this Forum, Power Point is an exception rather than a rule. The Chinese do not speak English, and the technique is relatively unfamiliar to them, although it has to be said that computers and printers in CSNA fully functional and very fast running. I asked an organizer to print me something from a memory stick and it took only five minutes to complete the work. The written presentation of mine (the paper-version) was brought to the hotel room. Such service!

In the evening I visit the Estonian Embassy in Beijing. The embassy is located at the other end of the city. Difficulties began with finding a taxi. In front of our complex, just over the street is a brand-new hotel and taxies usually wait for the customers there. To be sure with all the addresses, the starting and destination points, I ask the receptionist at the hotel lobby to write all down in the Chinese plus also indicate that on the map. Outside when I finally find one taxi driver, it turns out that he does not speak English, not even hello, and then show the driver the receptionists’ papers. Again, he does not understand anything (seemingly?). In this hopeless situation, I take out the Beijing map and show the destination. Now the driver is laughing, everything is clear and during the rush hour we are speedily driving towards the Estonian Embassy. I am there in 40 minutes and the whole ride costs 33 yuan (about 5 USD). Cheap.

With the ambassador we visit a German restaurant that serves European-style dishes, drink beer and talk about China, Estonia, the ambassador’s professional life.

And again with a taxi back to my place of residence. I get a taxi quickly and now immediately show the map and the journey back can start. Somehow the road seems to be longer, and then suddenly the driver explains something (yet in Chinese), makes the taxi door open and I understand I have to pay and leave. Everywhere is darkness, some garages around me and do not understand where I am. In the last moment of the troubled times, I take my hotel card with the address on it, I show it to the driver who re-starts the engine and in ten minutes I am at the familiar gates of the Complex where my hotel is located. It’s all for today. Later I find out that the Beijing taxi drivers do not really speak English, but the Chinese government, led by President HU, has ordered that taxi drivers should learn English quickly. Given the Chinese diligence, there is no doubt that most elementary phrases will be learned.

Thursday

Summary of the last two days as the Forum ends in one way or another
1. Almost no China’s team participants of the Forum speak English except two or three younger people;
2. Interpreters are poor or have been ordered to make a selective translation;
3. The Chinese are very eager to ask the speakers questions, but they still present them to their own Chinese speakers;
4. We have two separate groups in the Forum: Europeans and Chinese; these two groups are not mixed, but are interacting separately;
5. The Chinese seem to be very interested in NGOs as we see there are many questions about this issue;
6. Practically in every China’s speaker’s presentation, the element of building a harmonious society is imminent because it is the goal of the party and the government. The harmony is based on the older Chinese culture, it is abstract, philosophical, but how the Communist Party deals with it – remains confused at the Forum.
7. The Chinese are divided into groups and through the interpreter we can participate in different topic-discussions. One section was in English at the end of the second day of the Forum. The Chinese, whom I did not see on the first day, all of a sudden speak nice English and the discussions continue in a more vivid atmosphere. After we exchange our business cards and it comes to me – these are Chinese VIPs, such as their youth organization (like once during the Soviet Union’s – Komsomol or Young Communist League) leader even.

The China-EU Bilateral Forum ends with the Plenary Session (Summary of the Achievements of the Forum are made), but now in another hall as so many participants (mainly local) have left.

The Chinese are busy. They’ve been probably sitting up all night and preparing to make a nice summary, while the Europeans haphazardly present something. As Europeans are completely unprepared, a friend from Finland (very polite, with great sense of humor and active everywhere) is also asked to speak. Our Finn does a great job compared to the rest of the Europeans at the Forum (including modest me), but unfortunately the Chinese cannot be compared. They have put so much effort in finalizing the Forum results.

Ridiculously, most of the Europeans are adding in the end about their wonderful Beijing days, their non-Forum life, but not the business. Oh … the EU is hopeless. I can understand the politeness toward the hosts but everywhere there are limits. The EU representatives have come to Beijing as tourists, some already with the family members.

The event is a past. I sit with the Europeans in the bar at the hotel (Huang Yuan) opposite to our Complex, and the European leader and great organizer, the Englishman Harry List, is makes a revelation: the Chinese had offered officials and academics to participate at the Forum, like in proportions 50:50. However, Harry List had been so “smart” that he had explained 70% of European officials and 30% of academics would come from Europe. He asked the Chinese side for the same. Being tipsy he says: “I do not need these Chinese academics here in Beijing”. Well, so Harry List’s “request” had turned into the case when Chinese government officials became dominated at the Forum. The efficiency of the event happens to be close to zero.

Saturday is a free day for everyone. Me and a member of the EU delegation from Latvia – the head of the Government Chancellery (so their VIP) means that the Latvian embassy is thoroughly engaged in her free time activities. We are taken to a trip to the Beijing shops. We have a black car with a Chinese driver at our disposal. Latvian Embassy employee, a pretty 26 year old girl who speaks many languages other than Latvian: English, Russian, Chinese and Japanese, is our guide. She has MA from Moscow and her work is dedicated to teaching an old Chinese monastery.

The shopping is so funny. We are tried to be sold any kind of Gucci-Mucci and then the Chinese are sparking their own languages laughing openly at us but this time we have the 26-year old “interpreter” who quickly reacts them in Chinese. Finally we are taken to some tricky shops selling so-called “high-quality cheated goods (!?)”.The quality that is important here, because in the majority of cases things fall apart before you leaving the store, unless you are in a normal and officially functioning department store. Do not buy anything, however, the process itself is memorable.

We still have one show performance and a city tour, but it is difficult to move around in the city finally, as one of China’s most important holidays – the moon holiday (respect of ancestors) have forced the Chinese in Beijing into massive move out of the city mostly. If in the past days the city was relatively easy to drive by car or bus, then the city is now full of traffic jams. And what happens to the buses. Stops are full of many hundreds of people. The city buses themselves are reminiscent of the Soviet Union of the 1960s, with some eternal monsters (old narrow and long Ikarus-type buses). Many people do not get into the buses, and those the lucky ones are probably on their toes. So many people on the streets reminds me that it is still a city of 20 million people. Now I can already believe this fact. Beijing itself is otherwise a city of beautiful skyscrapers. There not many historical places in Beijing, apparently most of Mao Zedong destroyed during the Cultural Revolution or any other period of time. One day during the Forum, we also walked through some quarters to admire nature and local historical architecture. It was beautiful, but apparently it was an oasis in a big city. We visited some supposedly a residential quarter where people allegedly lived in small houses, but it all seemed that people came to work there in the morning to show tourists their so-called local life in a big city.

To sum up, the trip was interesting in every sense: I got the first idea of China and the Chinese. Their pursuit of big goals is remarkable and they are very studious. The EU, however, is part of the concept of the “western” or “sun-set land”. As long as the EU cannot understand that other regions are developing faster, the Union is destined to disappear in the long run. I have been pessimistic about the EU before, but I found it even more saddening after experiences in China.